Johann Donabaum Riesling Smaragd Setzberg 2023 Magnum, 1,50 L

The Setzberg already stands in a class of its own. In magnum, it becomes something truly special once again, showing greater calm, more depth and that relaxed tension that great Rieslings develop over time.

The typical Setzberg character is immediately evident on the nose: juicy stone fruit, with peach and apricot, complemented by subtle citrus notes. Everything feels clear, focused and very finely drawn. On the palate, the wine really comes into its own. It is taut, juicy and perfectly balanced, with an acidity that carries the wine and gives it enormous energy without ever seeming sharp.

Despite its Smaragd power, this Riesling remains surprisingly light on its feet. The magnum format adds extra harmony and depth, and nothing feels overdrawn or loud. Ultimately, the wine lingers for a long time, fresh and invigorating, with a fine, lemony aftertaste that invites another glass.

Serve in large glasses and at a temperature not too cold, as a little air is particularly beneficial. Already impressive today, it is clearly built for the long term. A Riesling that will give pleasure for many years to come and compellingly shows what the Wachau stands for. In this case, the large format from the Johann Donabaum winery is exactly right, as the magnum is truly the ideal choice.